There are two ways to hike the illegal Stairway to Heaven. The first is straight up the stairs, all 3922 of them. This one is complicated to say the least. Because there is no legal access to the base of the stairs, hikers tresspass on private and government land, usually super early in the morning. While this might not be that big of a deal in some situations, the private land happens to be a neighborhood. People apparently can't be civil. They talk loudly in the night, throw their garbage wherever, and generally act like jerks. Therefore, access remains illegal. Good job, folks. Most people who hike the Stairs take a winding route through bamboo to avoid the guard at the base. Oh yeah, if the police bust you, it's $1000. Ouch!
Despite all the craziness surrounding this hike, there is an even more adventurous way to go, and it's legal. Warning: it's been four days and my legs are still sore. Moanalua Valley offers a couple of paths to the top. We took the Kaulana'ahane Trail. It's about 10.5 miles round trip. The first three miles are a nice wide road that crosses the stream multiple times. Elevation gain is minimal. Don't worry though, this hike doesn't disappoint. The next two miles are a brutal 3000' of elevation gain.
The trail wound among trees up a ridge until it turned into a vertical muddy trough with ropes tied to help with the precarious edges. Frequent stops were necessary and encouraged because this valley and the views in EVERY direction are absolutely stunning. It's lush and green with the rising sun and clouds streaming over the saddle from the Windward side. We started the hike at 630 in the morning. This meant we only passed one trio on the way up.
The steep climb peaked in the clouds on a very windy saddle ridge about a foot wide. It was delicate work avoiding being blown off the ridge or tripping on a root. Finally we reached a fork. The right path led to the other route: Moanalua Middle Ridge Trail. The left path took us to the top of the Stairs. Another bunch of scrambling along a ridge with poor trail quality and we were there. The big radio tower at the top came into sight among the clouds.
The clouds covered the views of Kaneohe and Kailua. So we ate our snacks and walked down the stairs a bit. Luckily, the winds opened the view for us. Even all socked in, it's an awesome place to be. We went back the way we came in because I'm a rule follower (ish) and don't want a big ticket. The hike down was as perilous as the way up, except add a bit of rain. It was absolutely beautiful in every direction. With the sun all the way up, everything looked just a bit different.
Distance: 10.5 miles
Rating 5/5
Difficulty 5/5
Worth it 100%
