Hiking Old Rag in DC

Last month I spent two weeks in Washington DC. It was a work trip, but I was fortunate to snag a weekend to do a bit of exploring. A local friend of mine offered to take me hiking. Old Rag is apparently a super popular hike despite its distance (10ish miles). It's a solid hour and a half outside of the city in Shenandoah National Park. The drive is absolutely beautiful. City slowly gives way to green, tree-covered hills. There are small wineries tucked in the valleys along the way.
It costs $15 per person for a trail pass, which seems worthwhile considering the traffic the area sees. Parking is free if you show up early. If not, there's an old lady with a field next door who is perfectly happy to hustle you out of $10. Whatever, worth it. The hike is actually a half mile up the road from there. It seemed like there were a thousand people when I went, but they quickly thinned as we climbed.

Once we broke the tree line, there were gorgeous views everywhere and the real fun began. There's some rock jumping, climbing, pinch points where a little teamwork could be required. So much fun to be had. The rock is also really grippy, so as long as it's dry, nothing to worry about. There are a few overlooks along the way that are worth a stop. Several groups found big boulders to have lunch on. Sean and I opted for rum and gummy bears because what else would you want on a hike?

The way down finally earned us a small measure of solitude, not that the trail was empty, just far less busy than the rest. We had a few minutes between passing people going either direction. The whole trail is beautiful, so having to slow down and wait for someone is never that big of a deal. If you talk to the folks around you, you'll meet people from everywhere.

Definitely make time to stop for a wine tasting. Magnolia Winery provides cheese or chocolate with every pour and has sweet dogs.

Big Island Adventures

Last month Mike and I met up with Jeff and Lisa in Kona on the beautiful Big Island of Hawaii for a few days of adventures. We stayed on the west shores, mostly. Here are some of our super fun activities. Warning: for once this blog post is more pictures than words. I know, what is the world coming to? Let's start with one of the amazing sunsets we had from the dive boat. No, this is not proof the earth is flat, Go pro just loves to warp straight lines, like horizons.

1) We snorkeled Ke'alakua Beach. It's known for dolphins, but we didn't find any. What we did find were lots of fish, some really decent coral, a big moray eel, and a few abandoned masks I fished out of the water. Lisa also found an octopus. I can never find them.

2) One of the things I'd never done before was to hike to the green sand beach. The beach is on the south shores of the island and is covered in little bits of green volcanic glass. The result is a beach that glitters like tarnished gold. It is absolutely beautiful! Mike, of course, jumped in the water, but said the undertow was really strong so the rest of us camped out in a shady overhang for lunch. 

3) Mike and I did the Manta Ray dive when we visited Kona a few years back. it was epic and we couldn't wait to do it again. The first time we tried to go this trip, there was a bit swell, visibility and buoyancy were more wishes than actual conditions. So, we did one dive and watched a lovely sunset on the way back into the harbor. We rebooked for a few days later and I couldn't believe the first dive was the same reef. It was so bright, clear, and vibrant. We heard dolphins, saw garden eels, and all sorts of other creatures. The manta dive was not as exciting as the first time I went a few years ago. There were 5 rays but only one or two at a time came in to feed. The previous time I visited, there were 14 and it was like a ballet. This time was cool because the rays would come hover over us, which is apparently unusual. On the way out, Mike and I were slow heading back. I saw an articulated eel hunting and a perfect banded shrimp.

4) Blackwater diving is something I've wanted to do for a few years now. Mike and I saw pictures of cool little underwater aliens last time we were in Kona, but all of the dives were booked. Since Jeff didn't want to go, Mike agreed to stay with him and have a guys' night. So, Lisa and I went. We were both a little apprehensive since the dive requires driving the boat 3 miles off shore, tethering ourselves to 40' lines, and otherwise just hanging out in the dark with a tiny light. It was awesome! We saw all sorts of weird creatures big and small. I loved it. Andy, our dive master was fantastic and rescued a baby octopus we'd somehow brought back into the boat with us. The pictures below are from the sunset dives. My GoPro doesn't like the dark and so I didn't take it on the blackwater. Check out this video for cool stuff similar to what we saw.

5) We rented a 4Runner and drove up Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea. Mauna Loa is a one lane winding gorgeous road through miles and miles of black lava rock. The road took us all the way up to 13200 feet at which a trailhead leads to the summit. We didn't hike because of the rain. It was chilly, foggy, and beautiful. Next we drove up Mauna Kea to see the telescopes. The original plan was to drive up and have a sunset picnic then go stargazing at the visitors center. Unfortunately the rain blocked our sky views. It was way cool to cruise around the telescopes though. Plus, no traffic! Whoop!

6) On our way out of town, we caught a gorgeous sunset over a lava flow. It was just a great trip of small adventures and spending time with family. Thanks Jeff and Lisa!

 

Hiking the Stairway to Heaven

There are two ways to hike the illegal Stairway to Heaven. The first is straight up the stairs, all 3922 of them. This one is complicated to say the least. Because there is no legal access to the base of the stairs, hikers tresspass on private and government land, usually super early in the morning. While this might not be that big of a deal in some situations, the private land happens to be a neighborhood. People apparently can't be civil. They talk loudly in the night, throw their garbage wherever, and generally act like jerks. Therefore, access remains illegal. Good job, folks. Most people who hike the Stairs take a winding route through bamboo to avoid the guard at the base. Oh yeah, if the police bust you, it's $1000. Ouch!

Despite all the craziness surrounding this hike, there is an even more adventurous way to go, and it's legal. Warning: it's been four days and my legs are still sore. Moanalua Valley offers a couple of paths to the top. We took the Kaulana'ahane Trail. It's about 10.5 miles round trip. The first three miles are a nice wide road that crosses the stream multiple times. Elevation gain is minimal. Don't worry though, this hike doesn't disappoint. The next two miles are a brutal 3000' of elevation gain.


The trail wound among trees up a ridge until it turned into a vertical muddy trough with ropes tied to help with the precarious edges. Frequent stops were necessary and encouraged because this valley and the views in EVERY direction are absolutely stunning. It's lush and green with the rising sun and clouds streaming over the saddle from the Windward side. We started the hike at 630 in the morning. This meant we only passed one trio on the way up.





The steep climb peaked in the clouds on a very windy saddle ridge about a foot wide. It was delicate work avoiding being blown off the ridge or tripping on a root. Finally we reached a fork. The right path led to the other route: Moanalua Middle Ridge Trail. The left path took us to the top of the Stairs. Another bunch of scrambling along a ridge with poor trail quality and we were there. The big radio tower at the top came into sight among the clouds.

The clouds covered the views of Kaneohe and Kailua. So we ate our snacks and walked down the stairs a bit. Luckily, the winds opened the view for us. Even all socked in, it's an awesome place to be. We went back the way we came in because I'm a rule follower (ish) and don't want a big ticket. The hike down was as perilous as the way up, except add a bit of rain. It was absolutely beautiful in every direction. With the sun all the way up, everything looked just a bit different.

Distance: 10.5 miles
Rating 5/5
Difficulty 5/5
Worth it 100%

Molokai, My Last Hawaiian Island

After a nasty rainstorm that caused flooding and mudslides on Kauai, our kayaking trip along the Na Pali Coast was canceled. The park is closed until further notice so the beautiful valley can heal. Since the trip was canceled along with a planned work trip, I booked a little weekend getaway to Molokai, the last island I had to visit. Since it was last-minute, I wasn't able to book the mule tour everyone raves about. However, the weekend ended up being the perfect blend of adventure, relaxation, and ice cream (don't judge). 

Molokai is very old Hawaii. There are no stoplights, chain restaurants, Starbucks, malls, etc. It's known as The Friendly Isle and is full of friendly Hawaiians. This is really only surprising because we've experienced the opposite on all the other islands. As it turns out, most people don't like their islands being overrun with Haole tourists and military beouffs. Go figure. 

Molokai is Southwest of Oahu and North of Maui. It's hot and dry with gorgeous western beaches and a beautiful green mountain on the east end. The first day, we landed and had breakfast before driving up to Kalaupapa Lookout and Phallic Rock (no joke, they call it that). Kalaupapa is the old leper colony. It's this incredibly beautiful green peninsula at the bottom of steep pali (cliffs). The overlook really only gives and idea of what is there. Since a permit is required and strictly enforced, we were unable to go. Maybe I'll go back and hike or ride the mules.

Phallic Rock is a very phallic rock. I think I'm funny. No? Anyway, it is said that if a woman makes an offering and spends the night there, she will leave pregnant. I'm not sure if she is supposed to take the man there with her or not. Either way, it's a short walk in on a pretty little trail. I touched it, barely, but didn't spend the night. So, probably safe? :)

Following that, we drove east to Halawa Valley. We stopped to check out a farmer market in the main town. The road out is beautiful and coastal. Then it turns and winds through the valleys to Halawa trailhead. Apparently a permit is required to hike here too. We arrived too late for the hike, but some sites listed $60 for it. That's sixty dollars to move my own legs up a trail.... Sigh. There is a beautiful little beach at the bottom with waves for surfing and a giant pile of marine netting. This makes me sad. Mike found us a cocount and we split it for lunch. 

We stayed at Hotel Molokai which has funny little villas for rooms. Ours was super cozy. We enjoyed a long nap and played in the pool before dinner. The resort has a little oceanside restaurant with live music. Mike was a copy cat and we both had the blackened swordfish salad for dinner. It was fabulous! Afterward, we had to run into town to buy some of the Molokai Hot Bread, which is literally fresh warm bread with cream cheese and jam inside. Everyone raves about this. There is a line and everything. They are open every day! So, this just confuses me. Mike said it was tasty, but nothing mind blowing. It smelled way good.

The next morning we stopped at the town's only coffee shop for breakfast. My acai bowl had zero acai and all strawberry. New concept for me, but it tasted fine. We headed out to the west side to check out the beaches. We chose the longest beach in Hawaii, Papohaku, for a walk. Mike jumped in, and I chickened out. We walked all the way down to the other end and ran intervals back. The sand was so hard to run in! 

We ate at Molokai Pizza Cafe for lunch. I had a chef salad with no dressing (not as bad as you'd think). Mike had a pizza burger which looked awesome (are you seeing a theme yet?). We followed it up with this banana split just to make me feel better. We spent the rest of the afternoon curled up in a hammock at the hotel reading our books. 

The flight out may have been the best part of the trip. I booked us on Mokulele Air, which I've never flown. We were checked off a list to board. The flight left early because everyone was there. Instead of a noisy jet with sterile flight attendants, we were on a 12 seater single prop with big windows. The captain turned around in his seat to breif us. The flight was both stunning and fun. We flew lower because it's a prop plane. So worth it. I don't think I'll be island hopping on Hawaiian anymore. Loved it!

So that's it, a fun little weekend getaway with my man. Nothing insanely adventurous, but perfect for what we needed.

Springtime Adventures in Steamboat Springs, CO

Last fall my dad invited me to a yoga retreat in Steamboat Springs, CO in May. The cost was ridiculously low and I happen to love Colorado. Plus, a darling little ski town in the middle of nowhere with hot springs, um YES PLEASE! So, I was instantly waving my money in the air yelling "I WANT TO GO!!!" My husband is a super patient man. I RSVP'd immediately and Dad put the deposit in for the four of us.

Fast forward to May, I'd been beyond excited about this trip for months. The retreat was run by Erin of Oso and Co Adventures out of Heber City, UT. She did an amazing job with planning and execution of every aspect of it. And the best part of all? She has two sweet doggies to snuggle. Westy was less than 4 months old and I couldn't get enough!

The schedule Erin had laid out for the retreat was packed full of amazingness. Each day began with pranayama (breath work) on the deck in the morning sunshine. That was followed immediately by breakfast, a two hour block of yoga, and lunch. Then there was a gap of time for an activity: biking, hiking, visiting town (more on all of that in a min). Then we came back for another 60-90 minute block of yoga, dinner and a lesson on Shamanism from Soaring Eagle Ed. Two nights even included visit to the hot springs.

Each yoga practice centered around a chakra. We began at the root chakra working on centering ourselves and finally ended with the crown chakra where we danced and did lots of fun inversions. So, seven practices in four days with completely different themes, movements, and poses. I loved each one. For the throat chakra, she had us scream for several rounds. I thought it was freeing and funny. Mike found it emotional. Lorrie was horrified. So, that was an interesting social experiment. 

The meals worked through the chakras as well. Some were a combination of two adjacent chakras. The food was a bounty of color and flavor, mostly vegetarian with a bit of turkey thrown in here and there. 

The activity for the first day was mountain biking. We rented bikes in town and rode Spring Creek Trail. It's about 4 miles each way with 1200 feet of elevation gain. Yikes. The original plan was to drive to the top and bike down. Most of us opted to bike up and down. I made it most of the way. The trail started around 7000 feet of elevation. If you've never lived at sea level then tried to be awesome over a mile higher, know this: you'll struggle. Mike and I felt like our lungs were raw and shredded by the midpoint. I finally turned around before the final push because why trash my body on day 1? Lorrie and I rode down together and I forgot just how joyous cruising downhill on a mountain bike is. The air smelled amazing, there were trees and sun and greenery everywhere, plus it's fun to ride across streams and bridges. This trail was a win. Even my lungs grudgingly agree.

Day 2's activity was a little bitty hike to Fish Creek Falls. Again, we pushed the distance. The first and bigger falls is only a quarter mile down a paved trail. Ummmm.... So we went to the second falls which is a crazy beautiful five mile round trip. Have I mentioned I love Colorado? BTW I love this picture of Mike. He's not even posing, he woke up like this. :D

I visited the hotsprings both nights. They are up in the mountains with no light pollution, amazing stars, and not too many people. However, after dark, there is no lighting and people go nude. So we saw lots of random naked dudes with the flashlight beam while trying to find somewhere to stash my clothes. Luckily, everyone in my group went in swimsuits. 

I would love to do another retreat like this. We met so many great people. Living communally with tons of activities and someone to cook me awesome food is literally the best thing in the whole world!

A Dose of Maui Sunshine

One of the most awesome things about living in Hawaii is how easy it is to island hop. From busy Oahu, I can be on lush Kauai or beautiful Maui in 30 minutes on an easy jumper flight. Each island has its own unique feel and personality. Oahu is the most crowded, but the big volcanic spine of the Ko'olau Mountains through the middle of the island keeps it full of intriguing wild spaces. Maui on the other hand feels like sunshine. It's energy is warm, serene, and wonderful. There are beautiful beaches, gorgeous reefs, and big mountains. Haleakala is the volcano in the middle of the island. While the rest of the island is green, Haleakala is barren with a moon scape at the top. One of these days, I will backpack across that crater.

This visit was with friends. We met Duane, Angie, and Taylor in the gorgeous west Maui coastal town of Lahaina. Mike and Duane were friends years ago in both the Army and civilian worlds. It's been really fun to reunite. Mike and I arrived early Saturday morning. We ate breakfast at the beautiful Sea House restaurant in Napili Bay. The restaurant is right on the water with big open windows and a fabulous view. We had the sweet potato frittata and Haleakala custard pancake. Both were gluten free and delicious.

Next we took a little hike up Mahana Ridge Trail. I thought I had read that it was a four mile roundtrip. Nope, that's Waihee Ridge. Oops. We ended up doing a nine mile roundtrip to the Arboretum. The full loop through the Arboretum adds and additional eight miles for a total of 17. I was not up for 17 miles. Our hike was fun though. We followed it up with some super tasty Mexican at Frida's Beach House. We split the Diego Plato with beef. It was super tasty and we were once again seated right on the water. However, the service was terrible and prices were very high. We stayed in a darling two bedroom condo close to everything in Lahaina. When our friends arrived, we took a walk to find dinner and entertainment for the night.

 

The next morning we had a dive trip to Lanai scheduled. At 0700, we boarded a boat and rode about 45 minutes to the neighboring island. On the way, we had to stop to watch whales jumping and playing in the ocean. Two even swam very close to our boat. So cool! The diving was ok. Visibility was over 100 feet and there were lots of swim-throughs and fish. I saw a huge lobster and a turtle. What made it not amazing was the number of divers on the trip. There were three groups of nine divers all hitting the same sites at the same time. The sites aren't big, so there weren't a lot of areas to enjoy without others bumping into you. The second site was First Cathedral which is a big cavern under the water. It's stunningly beautiful with light streaming in through smaller "windows". Again, ten people (a photographer had joined us) packed into a small space under water is not my favorite way to experience it. I think I was just spoiled rotten in Truk with our small dive groups. Lahaina Divers is a top notch company and provides muffins, sandwiches, chips, fruit and chocolate chip cookies. I had chips and fruit, but the guys loved the cookies. After everyone showered, napped and drank wine, we had a BBQ by the pool in the common area of the condos.

Our final morning we all hiked up to the Lahainaluna High School "L". This is only a 3ish mile hike if you know where you're going. We turned it into a 5.5 mile hike complete with GPS and drone reconnaissance to get us there. We'd gone the wrong way around a new solar power plant (which hadn't existed when the directions were written). So, adventure route, which I like. The path down was well marked except for right at the beginning. It also smelled wonderful. The trail wound down through lemon gum eucalyptus trees. Reading more about the hike, we may have been trespassing. Whoops!

Duane, Mike and I went spearfishing at Hanakao'o Park. We rented guns and went with a local guide. Keoki was awesome, but the price wasn't worth it to me. We go at home for free. So I struggle with paying someone to swim with me and put my fish in a bag. That's ok. We had a great time. I saw a bunch of octopi and almost caught one! We swam with a big eagle ray. I shot three fish, but one got away. Duane also shot three fish. The first was a porcupine or puffer fish and blew up like a spiky balloon. It was hilarious! Mike was unlucky but had a good time anyway.